Red Roo/Fly Models DC-9

[F-27pax]

Some advice from the hive mind please.

I'm looking at the instructions for the Red Roo kit of the Ansett Airlines of Australia DC-9-30. There I read that one needs to add 2mm to the engine pylons. Is this simply that Fly forgot to make their engine pylons as long as they should be or were Australian DC-9s different from the rest in this direction? Does this mean that I have to add 2mm to the engine pylonss of all my Fly Model DC-9s (of which I have quite a few)?

Leigh

[Cap'n Wannabe]

FWIW it also says to add a 2mm spacer on the TAA instructions.

[tor lives]

It is an identified problem with the Fly DC-9, but it can be easily rectified with the aftermarket Contrails JT8/DC-9 engine set.
http://www.contrailsmodels.com/Engines.html
TOR

[Cap'n Wannabe]

I guess the bonus B-52 engine set that came with my TAA sample is pretty useless then..

[Graeme H]

The problem is that Fly made the pylons too close to the fuselage more like the MD80, which is much closer than on DC9's, you need to space them out, I usually use a piece sprue and sand it down

Fly DC9 Pic 3 by qfa_tsv, on Flickr

DSCF3439 by qfa_tsv, on Flickr

[F-27pax]

Thanks for the comments fellow plasticeers. I think I'll take TOR's advice and give the Contrails engines a go. Their JT3Ds for DC-8s proved to be excellent so I am happy with their product. They've been ordered, all I have to do now is wait.
Leigh

[Graeme H]

Wuss

[tor lives]

Wuss

Seems to me like a common sense decision, it's what I did .
TOR

[F-27pax]

The reason for buying the new engines is because I'm going to be making 6 or 7 DC-9s of various kinds and I would like them to look similar, something that I could not do with so much repeat scratchbuilding.
Leigh

[RayS]

Well, fortunately, I only have one of these kits so scratch building will be the go for me.

I wonder if there is an enterprising resin producer that could make up a master to correct these kit pylons