1/72 Tiger Moth VH-AMY

[Adam the Akrodude]

Man what a modelling challenge! Out of interest, as I've never tried tensioning using a hot match head, is this needed as you fix the rigging at one point and apply some tension on the other end and set with CA glue?

Honestly I bow low with respect doing this in 72nd! I can hardly handle this task in 32nd!

Keep on Rockin'!

Cheers

Adam

[tor lives]

I'll leave the sucking to you and Damo considering you're both so good at it. Well that's the word on the street anyways

That's it????..... that's the best come back ya got .

TOR

[hrtpaul]

It's all I have time for. I have waaaaay more important things to do than entertain you lot Speaking of. Here's where the Tiger is up to so far. All the rigging bar the rudder is done. Worked out hanging a clamp of the thread keeps it tight enough while the glue dries. I partly bent 1 of the interplane struts whilst tightening some rigging but I saved it. Unfortunately the wings are now not lined up with each other. I think this is because I rigged 1 wing before the other. It's a learning curve I guess. The undercarriage is modified and on as well. I'm really happy with how the rigging has gone and a bit disappointed I'm almost done with it. As some as the rudder has been rigged I'll be able to put some colour on it. I still have to match the blue and add some detail to the engine once the cowl is painted . Here's the pics



The technical flying wire tensioning device


Undercarriage on


Elevator rigging


Almost done

[tor lives]

Mate....I have to say, you are really doing an impressive job on this Tiger Moth.
You are entertaining us..... in a really good way. And you are right, building this model is way more important . What glue are you using for the rigging???
TOR

[hrtpaul]

Adam - You use a burnt match (of toothpick in my case) just to provide a bit more tension as you can't get is tight enough with invisible thread by hand alone. Especially in 1/72 as the model is rather fragile as I've found out. Also you don't want too much heat ( putting burnt match too close) otherwise you'll melt the thread or surrounding structure. Works well when you figure out how to do it. On my 1/32 kit Ill be using EZ line etc which does away with such risks. On my next 1/72 one I'm gonna try EZ line to see if it's a viable alternative

Ray - Using CA glue mate for the rigging

[DesTROYer]

Very nice work there Paul. I like your rigging method too.

Your come back does need a lot more work though.

[frediv]

Rigging mockup copy.jpg

The image is a mock up of my method of rigging a single bay biplane.
Hi Paul, this post is probably too late for your Tiger Moth build but might be of some use in the future,
As has already been pointed out, it is best to rig a section of one wing, the same section on the other wing and alternate sections between wings.
It is possible to rig a single bay biplane with two lengths of thread per wing - three if the aircraft has double flying wires. For example a possible sequence for thread one; starting at front inboard top (FIT) location, down to front outboard bottom (FOB), leave a small loop then diagonally up (bracing wire) to top rear O/B strut (TRO), another loop, then down to the rear inboard (RIB) location.Thread two would start at front inboard bottom (FIB), up to front outboard top (FOT), loop, diagonally down (bracing wire) to rear bottom outboard (ROB), loop, then up to rear cabane.
Note The image above does not represent the threading sequence, its purpose is to describe the actual tensioning method.

To the image. The red thread represents the rigging thread, the black pieces are lengths of stretched sprue which are used as round tapered wedges to lock the rigging threads in place.
Starting at FIT the rigging thread can be tightly locked in place with the sprue wedge. At FOB the thread is nipped in place with the wedge but not too tight. The 'up' side of the loop on the bottom of the wing can be locked in place with the wedge. The top of this thread is nipped in place, the 'down-ward' part of the loop going back through the wing is locked. The end of the thread passes through the wing and is nipped with the sprue. Similarly for thread two. The reason for leaving some joins less tight is to allow the rigging tension to be adjusted by easing out the wedges and finally pulling threads taut by means of the loops and then locking in place with the wedge. No need for heat.
A small pair of pliers is useful for pulling the wedges through and a fair amount of "pull" can be applied to lock everything in place, so much so that super glue is belt and braces.
Rather long winded but hopefully of some use. I would rather rig small biplanes than scribing.
Fred H.
p.s. Thread the wedge into the hole in the same direction as the thread, It adds to the tensioning by helping to pull the thread through.
GRRR, the image has disappeared. Will try again

[frediv]

Rigging mockup copy.jpg

Try again
FGH

[hrtpaul]

Hi Fred. Thanks heaps for that mate. I'll give that a go on my next one I think. I really like the idea of the sprue wedges too. Oh and since I've had a crack at rigging, I'm with you Fred and would rather rigging than scribing

[Adam the Akrodude]

Great tip there Fred! I am totally bamboozled how anyone can rig a 1/72 model and still retain any eyesight afterwards! How does one physically get ones fingers to perform such micro-surgery?

Gawd, I almost have to give this a go just for the challenge - one day!